This
kölsch-style brew has the slightly sweet aroma of toasty grain. The
flavour profile meanders from sweet and grainy opening notes toward the
finish line: a short, dry, and unexpectedly bitter back end.
Because
of the sweet to bitter progression and the curtness of the finish, this
beer manages to have exemplary crispness without sacrificing much
flavour. While perhaps not as style-typical as some of the classics from
Cologne, I find Brown Van's version of the tricky little brew to be a
novel and noteworthy take. A bit more booze would be nice, but with its
current strength, clarity, and brightness, this is the kind of craft
beer that might turn heads among the macro lager crowd.
Rating: 9.0 out of 10
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