Centurion Beer

Centurion Beer hails from South River, Ontario, where it is created by the folks at the Highlander Brew Co. (the directing minds behind the enjoyable Highlander Scottish Ale). The 341mL bottle sports a label that isn't particularly informative (ale or lager? I'm pretty sure it's an ale, btw), but it does indicate that the beer is made with spruce tips and contains a meaty 6.0% alcohol. Additionally, the label notes "#F4LBR", which was basically inscrutable, though when I googled it, I learned that it referred to the Friends for Life Bike Rally, in support of the People with AIDS Foundation. A little more digging led me to the knowledge that Centurion Beer was developed with with folks involved in the bike rally. Why they couldn't just say that, I'll never know. Is money going to the cause, or are they just pals? I did really enjoy the edgy Marvin the Martian on the label though.

The beer is clear, pale gold, and ably carbonated. It poured with a thin layer of pearly head. The nose is floral, and has, not surprisingly, an evergreen bent. It has a mellow, agreeable mouthfeel and an easy-going but interesting taste profile. There is a touch of Christmas tree, but only subtly. There are a lot of blonde ale qualities--malt and hops, both mild in equal measures, plus a smooth-sipping feel.

At 6.0%, this beer isn't overpowering, but it does pack a decent kick. The use of spruce tips was deftly handled, with restraint and class. The underlying beer is a smidge better than ordinary, but it's definitely palatable. I'd certainly consider buying it again, particularly since I think Highlander is a cool and promising brewery with a bright future.

Rating: 7.0 out of 10.

Winnikeg, Manitobeer--Simcoe Spruce

Simcoe Spruce is sold under the aegis of Winnipeg, Manitoba's Half Pints Brewing Co., though according to the label, this stuff is brewed by Dean Kelly and was the Best in Show winner of the 2013 Half Pints Pro/Am Brew Challenge. Sold in 650mL bottles, Simcoe Spruce contains 5% alcohol and 35 IBUs. The label also informed me that this stuff is brewed in an American Pale Ale style using Simcoe hops, as well as spruce tips.

It's a meagerly hazy copper ale that pours with an inviting off-white head. There's a sizable hops aroma that is evergreen heavy--aided, not doubt, by the use of spruce tips. There is also a significant malt waft and a slightly metallic bent. The beer's glorious flavour tastes deeper than the 35 IBUs listed. There is a malty structure, but the outer workings are all woodsy hops and spicy spruce.  It definitely isn't the dry spruce of the holidays, either, but a fresh, fragrant spruce of damp spring.

I downed a bottle of this impressive ale during a thrilling autumn thunder storm, and it contributed to a pretty swell show. I would call this a great beer. I'd have liked a touch more booze, but that's pretty much my only complaint.

Rating: 9.0 out of 10.

Garrison Brewery-Spruce Beer

Garrison's Spruce Beer is sold in 500mL bottles that are emblazoned with a cool historical quote about spruce beers and their use in Halifax; however, the quote is, unfortunately, unattributed.  I'd really like to know what the source is.  According to the label, this interesting ale is brewed using spruce and fir tips and a bit of molasses.

The Spruce Beer clocks in at a fulsome 7.5% alcohol. It pours a surprisingly dark, reddish brown colour and is mostly clear.  It is topped with a thick cloud of khaki head.  The evergreen bouquet is tempered with some dark, malty sweetness. The flavour is really sweet--you can really taste the molasses. There is some bitterness at the back end that is a welcome relief from the sweetness that, at times, is almost syrupy. The spruce taste is a compelling undertaste throughout.  It doesn't really dominate, and lets the other flavours mingle.

Kudos to Garrison for reviving an historical alternative to the conventional barley, yeast, hops, and water formula. Their spruce beer isn't the kind of brew that I would reach for on a daily basis, but it is a thought-provoking pint that is definitely worth sampling.

Rating: 8.0 out of 10.

Elli Will-Bière d'Épinettes

My French isn't great, but my nose is getting better.  I'm going to say that this is a spruce beer--it smells like a tree farm and it tastes like Christmas.  This intriguing brew comes from Ham-Sud, Quebec, where it is brewed by les Brasseurs du Hameau.  It is sold in 500mL bottles and weighs in at 5.5%.

Elli Will pours a cloudy, whitish colour that makes it look like a weiss bier.  It is topped by a moderate foam of off-white head.  It has an undeniable spruce scent--very forest-y.  This beer tastes like drinking a Christmas tree.  It is sweet to bitter, but the prevailing flavour is definitely softwood.  The aftertaste is slightly bitter, and remains Christmas, through and through.

An interesting product, worth a try for its novelty value alone, this beer also has considerable merit.  It wouldn't be a brew that I'd crave, nor would I sit down to a second, but it's one that I would be glad to revisit.

Rating: 7.5 out of 10.