Fugg Life

Manantler Craft Brewing Co. makes an extra special bitter using Maris Otter malt and Fuggle hops that gives it a classic English feel. Fugg Life is a 4.6% ale from Bowmanville, Ontario. Sold in 500mL bottles with Manantler’s generic labels, the beer itself is a handsome, clear copper ale that pours with a modest layer of off-white suds.

Zevon doesn't usually express interest in brews, but she liked the vibe of this one.

Fugg Life has a sweet, malty aroma with rich brown sugar and sticky toffee notes. The flavour mimics the aroma, but amplified: it’s malt-driven, with caramel/toffee, and brown sugar, as well as a some orange pekoe tea notes. Based on this description, one might expect that Fugg Life is too sweet, but the beer is actually quite balanced—the Fuggle hops don’t generate overpowering bitterness, but they definitely offset the malty sweetness of the front end expertly.

Fugg Life is a beautiful beer with a dumb name. A great example of the ESB style from an under-the-radar Ontario brewery (Manantler deserves way more attention, at least based on my limited experience with their offerings), Fugg Life is a very satisfying brew. Low-ish alcohol, but full-flavoured, this beer is well-constructed and I highly recommend it.

Rating: 9.0 out of 10.

Naughty Hildegard ESB

Naughty Hildegard ESB is named in named in honour of Hildegard von Bingen, a really interesting polymath and Benedictine abbess who was, among other things, credited with recording the utility of hops as a preservative--so we owe her. Brewed in Victoria, BC by Driftwood Brewery, NH is a 6.5% alcohol ale that comes in snazzy 650mL bottles. It’s a crystal clear copper-hued ale that pours with a layer of off-white head.

I found NH to be a quirky and enjoyable hybrid of an ale, with metallic and malt notes characteristic of an extra special bitter, but also a pretty generous dose of dank and juicy hops. It had a nose of caramel, malt, and, unexpectedly, a touch of nectarine. The flavour was similarly constructed—sweet and malty, with a bit of a fruity streak—though with a fairly robust level of bitterness to seal the deal. 

 

At a hoppy 6.5%, Naughty Hildegard doesn’t fit neatly into the ESB mould, nor that of an American pale ale. Despite its somewhat off-style traits, the beer was really quite delicious. I’d definitely buy it again.

Rating: 8.5 out of 10.

Kingpost ESB

Kingpost ESB calls Collingwood, Ontario home. It's a 5.8% alcohol, 40 IBU extra special bitter from the Collingwood Brewery. The beer leaves its 473mL can looking copper-hued and clear, pouring under a decent layer of off-white head.

Kingpost has a sweet and malty nose, with an agreeable caramel bent. The flavour has a metallic quality alongside malt and caramel notes. The initial taste is sweet; I was caught off-guard by the depth of bitterness at the back end. There was some real hops astringency that resulted in a quick, dry, and bready finish.

I thought Kingpost was a nicely constructed English-style ale. The front end could have been stronger, but the finish was most satisfactory. Would buy again.

Rating: 7.0 out of 10.

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